'LOVE IN LOCKDOWN' EPISODE 20: SKINCARE WITH FRANKIE HASTINGS

                                                      

“Let’s talk Skincare”

Since the pandemic began, the importance of hygiene continues to be emphasised. Over lockdown, with more time at home many have taken the time to research and develop a skincare routine as part of establishing adequate hygiene and self-care. A recent study reported by Mintel, found that usage rates have risen across the board for skincare products including moisturiser, toner and face wash. Face masks and night creams have also seen a growth in purchase, to help improve overall skin health and boost consumer wellbeing.

It was also found that 76% of women who invested in skincare products shared that price is a key purchase driver. With that being the case, I have collated my favourite four high quality, effective brands that are of a reasonable and affordable price.

1.  The Ordinary: £5-£30. A high quality brand that combines science and clinical technology with high street prices. They effectively strip back unnecessary and misleading ingredients to offer high quality products at reasonable prices.

2.  Cerave: £5-£35. Developed with dermatologists, this brand is affordable yet shares invaluable expertise. Scientifically recommended to hydrate, protect and replenish skin. Their range is simplistic but effective, and their website educates visitors about skincare and personal skin types.

3.  Simple: £1-£10. A brand that’s sold in many high-street shops. Free of alcohol, harsh chemicals and artificial perfumes, they are quite literally ‘simple’ and kind to the skin. Hydrating, cleansing and protecting.

4.  Body Shop: £5-£50. They organise products by skin type, helping you purchase what’s useful and effective for you personally. Their range includes the basics for dry, combination and oily skin, along with products to advance your skincare routine. Some of the products include perfume, but they also have an Aloe Vera range that’s recommended for even the most sensitive skin types.

IN CONVERSATION WITH FRANKIE HASTINGS:                                                              

                                                       

I spoke to Frankie, a 22 year old Actor (recently graduated from drama school), who has struggled with her skin. She told me about her journey and shared some helpful advice and knowledge. From the offset she stated that all of this is personal and she’s not a dermatologist. As someone who has struggled with acne, she’s trying to work out what works for her while hoping some of this is useful to others to.

Tell us a bit about your skincare journey?

FRANKIE: “I first had acne at the age of 16, since then it’s been a love hate journey to where I’m at. Filled with doctor’s appointments, advice/opinions of those around me, and frantic google searches trying to come to a “solution” on my own. Both my parents have had acne- genetics play a big part in skin conditions that you just have to accept. I’ve been on antibiotics for acne that didn’t work for me. This isn’t to say that they won’t work for others. If your skin is bothering you or is painful definitely speak to your doctor or a dermatologist for help.

About 2 years ago, a friend at drama school taught me about the word comedogenic: a tendency for an ingredient to block your pores. Some ingredients are more likely to cause breakouts than others, knowing this can help you to spend your money on products that shouldn’t flare up acne prone skin. This is when I first started doing my own research and begun learning how to look after my skin.”

What research has helped you reach your current skincare routine?

FRANKIE: “My friend told me about the website https://acneclinicnyc.com/pore-clogging-ingredients/ . You copy and paste the ingredients of a skincare or makeup product into a box and their formula flags up any potential pore clogging ingredients. Personally, I do this before I’m going to buy something to be aware of what I’m putting on my skin and avoid products that contain comedogenic ingredients.

I’ve learnt a lot from social media about the order to apply your skincare routine and read reviews on products. However, be wary of who you’re getting your advice from and check to see whether their post is a paid advertisement. No product will make your skin look like a filtered picture of yourself. Everyone’s skin is different so what works for an influencer with “perfect” skin, may not work for you. Skincare is a massive financial industry and capitalising from people’s insecurities is a profitable business.

A friend gave me the book “Skin Care” by Caroline Hirons, a fully trained aesthetician. This book was great for taking you through a skincare routine for your specific skin type, explaining the science behind different ingredients, and debunking a lot of marketing myths e.g. it’s impossible to shrink your pore size so a product that claims this isn’t going to work.”

What have you learnt about skin types and triggers for flare-ups?

FRANKIE: “I don’t know enough on skin types to comment on broadly. For me, I know my skin is acne prone combination- which means it’s prone to spots and different parts are drier/oilier than others. Triggers for me are stress, lack of sleep, alcohol and an unhealthy diet, and the new one is wearing makeup with masks. It’s good to be aware of what may trigger your skin, but you still need to live your best life so don’t let an obsession with looking after your skin stop you from having fun.  

Maskne is a new thing a lot of people are experiencing- where acne develops after using face masks. My advice on how I deal with this is to try to wash my mask after every use (particularly if I’ve worn it for a whole day or worn it with makeup) but I understand this is time consuming and not always possible. Washing your face when you get home after wearing a mask is a good shout. A makeup artist told me that if you use mouthwash/brush your teeth after you’ve eaten food before putting a mask on it can help. This obviously isn’t always possible so I try to carry gum/mints instead if I’m out and about. There’s a lot to worry about at the moment and masks are more important than spots so I just try to do what I can without getting too hung up on it.”

Do you have any tips on getting to know your own skin and skin type?

FRANKIE: “Knowing the difference between skin type and skin condition is a good place to start. Skin type is: dry, oily, combination, sensitive, normal. There’s loads of conditions that people with those types may have for example acne, hyperpigmentation, eczema etc. Once you know these (if you google how to, you should be able to figure out your type/condition) then you can start researching what ingredients target different needs. Even within that, it’s all trial and error. Some ingredients may be great for someone’s acne and some may irritate it. A tip I’d say is to be patient. It’s frustrating when you just want your skin to calm down and repair but all of this takes time. I read that you should stick with a routine for three months to see if it’s working. However, if it seems to be making your skin worse or causes irritation ditch it before then.  

I’m wary of big brands selling high concentrations of acids/specific treatments at really cheap prices. Most of the time you don’t need a product to be 10% of that targeted ingredient to be effective, if anything it might cause more irritation. Google the effectiveness required for that specific treatment and make your judgement from there.”

What are your favourite current brands?

FRANKIE: “Like It On Top- it’s a vegan small business that I found on Instagram. The woman who started the business suffers with acne herself and has created these products to help herself and others! I like it because their products work for my skin, are sustainably made and packaged, and they’re not going to break your bank account. CeraVe is my go to for an everyday cleanser and moisturiser. Their cleansers contain specific ingredients to target your skin concerns so you can save money by cleansing whilst using specific acids to target your skin concerns instead of purchasing the specific acid separately. In doing research, I learnt that you don’t need to spend lots of money on expensive cleansers and moisturisers because realistically- it won’t make that much of difference to your skin. Save your money for specific serums/treatments if you want to splash out.”

What does a typical skincare daily routine look like for you?

FRANKIE: “Typically, in the morning I wash my face, use the Like It On Top Fortify toner, an eye gel, moisturiser, and then SPF 50. 2/3 times a week I’ll swap out the toner for the Paula’s choice BHA liquid exfoliant. Tip for saving money and the planet- invest in bamboo face pads rather than disposable cotton pads. You just wash them afterwards and reuse them rather than throwing away and spending money on new cotton ones!

In the evenings, it’s a lot simpler: if I’m wearing makeup I’ll use an oil cleanser first to remove the makeup, then the usual cleanser. I have a topical benzoyl peroxide cream from the doctors that I’ve been using for years which helps manage breakouts. I’ll then use the Sustain oil from Like It On Top. Twice a week I swap out the benzoyl peroxide cream for a retinoid to help reduce scarring.”

Do you have a long list of products or keep it minimal?

FRANKIE: “My skincare routine doesn’t really vary so I try to stick to what I use regularly. I know some people like to mix it up a lot and it works for them. My shelves are getting smaller as I’m finding out what works for me. Consistency is important for your skin to take time to settle and to give products a chance to work. Social media has taught me how often to use products. A lot of companies will say to use the product (particularly liquid exfoliants like AHA’s or BHA’s) every day when you really don’t need to. Over use of a particularly strong formula can result in redness, irritation and more breakouts as your skin cannot cope with being stripped each day. You wouldn’t deep clean your house everyday so there’s no need to this with your skin. Companies may do this as a marketing ploy, to get you to use up their product quicker and buy it again. Double check on google how often to use products for the best effect.”

Do you use SPF daily and why?

FRANKIE: “I do use SPF factor 50 that protects against UVB (shorter ultraviolet waves that cause skin burning) and UVA (longer wavelengths that cause skin aging) every day. It doesn’t really matter if it’s a sunny day or not- UV rays still reach your skin when it’s cloudy. This was all learnt from friends who are older than me and have amazing skin. It’s important to wear a high factor SPF every day to protect your skin barrier, prevent and speed up the process of healing acne scars, and to prevent sun damage that causes signs of aging. I read a while ago that it is not enough to use a moisturiser or foundation that has SPF in it- the concentration just isn’t high enough to protect your skin. That’s why I use a separate SPF at the end of my morning routine. Honestly, just doing this step will really benefit your overall skin health.”

Do you think you’ll keep your current routine forever? Do you try and test new products?

FRANKIE: “I will change my skincare routine as I get older and my skin concerns change. In terms of adding new products in regularly, I think if it’s not broken- don’t change it! So, if something is working for you keep at it. Bar adding SPF to the end of your routine if you don’t currently use it. Being patient and persistent is key, avoid buying products just because of hype, do your own research and figure out where you want to spend your money for what you want to address.”

Any last words you wish to share?

FRANKIE: “It’s hard to believe this, especially when breakouts are full on, but your skin does not define your worth. Having acne prone skin or any major skin condition can definitely affect your mental health. Constantly staring at and analysing your face isn’t healthy so I’m learning not to worry about it as much and be less critical. You’re your best and your worst judge- you know your face better than anyone else but you’re also paying more attention to every detail than anyone else would. Most of the time people are too concerned with their own struggles to pay attention to your acne/scarring/skin condition. If they define you by your skin condition, it says more about them and their insecurities than it does about yourself. Your skin will never be “perfect”, it’s just about managing it each day. Don’t let filtered pictures online make you feel like you’re not good enough. Online photos are not real life, so take all of what you see with a massive pinch of salt. You have so much to offer this world, try to spend your time on what brings you joy rather than beating yourself up about things you cannot control.”